“not-Katahdin” in Baxter State Park is worth the trip

Last week I hiked a tiny piece of the Appalachian Trail, the part that through-hikers thrill to reach at the end of their 2100-mile trek as they begin their final ascent up Mount Katahdin. For us, it was only a short hike up, about as far as Katahdin’s ankle. We climbed just over a mile up the Hunt Trail to Katahdin Falls, then came back down. It was marvelous.
 
I’ve climbed the iconic Mount Katahdin several times, and there’s no denying it is an unforgettable edifice of a mountain to summit, and not just because of the memorable pain of descending staircases for a week afterwards. It is a looming giant, a mega-dinosaur with scrabbly ridges along its spine that you traverse all above tree line, a breathtaking behemoth. But now that I’m in my 60s, I’m less excited to have my breath taken away. I’d just as soon hang on to it while I still have it.
 
Katahdin Falls is a gorgeous destination, and how refreshing not to feel the looming of nine more miles of climb and descent. We had ample time to get back to our tent site at Katahdin Stream campground for lunch, then drive up the road to walk the loop around the glorious Daicey Pond. I’d been to Baxter State Park so many times with a blinder-focus on Katahdin’s Baxter Peak. The park is so much more, and it was wonderful to discover a few more gems that I’ve been missing all these years.
 
I talked to a couple of park rangers who admitted that their favorite park hike is not Katahdin. For one of them it’s Double Top, for the other, Owl. Why? “Because you can’t see Katahdin from Katahdin,” they both said.
 
From the summits of nearby peaks, you get to marvel at the view of one of the most impressive mountains in the country. You can’t do that if you’re standing on Katahdin.
 
Our recent trip included no mountaintops, but it had the advantage of avoiding the after-pain. On our second day we hiked to Big and Little Niagara Falls – yes Baxter has its own Niagaras! Full immersion in forest flora and the soothing song of water, rushing and tumbling its way down rocky inclines, with time to savor it.
 
Sometimes off the beaten path is exactly what you need.
 
*For more not-Katahdin gems, explore South Branch Pond, North Brother, Hamlin Peak, Blueberry Knoll, Basin Pond, Chimney Pond. Worth the trip!